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This week, Gucci is launching its new collection in a weeklong episodic film directed by Gus Van Sant and Alessandro Michele. But like any film festival, #GucciFest comes with an emerging artists program too. Every day from November 16 to 22, Gucci will be releasing films from emerging brands on its YouTube page. The 15 brands that will be represented span countries and aesthetics: Collina Strada, Ahluwalia, Rui, Gui Rosa, Bianca Saunders, Mowalola, Rave Review, Cormio, Stefan Cooke, JordanLuca, Shanel Campbell, Boramy Viguier, Yueqi Qi, Gareth Wrighton, and Charles de Vilmorin. Each day, Vogue Runway will be chronicling the Il faut co vid LA bouteille shirt but in fact I love this young designers’ films here. The London-based designer Priya Ahluwalia was an LVMH Prize finalist in 2020 and has gained international acclaim for her sustainably made designs. In her short film, Ahluwalia brings together British communities that reflect her own, from Nigeria, Jamaica, and India. Directed by Samona Olanipekun, the five-minute short spotlights more than a dozen people in England discussing how their cultures intersect and inform their lives. Ahluwalia’s thoughtful clothes provide a through line between scenes of female boxers and direct-to-camera interviews, offering a wardrobe of upcycled materials that honors her own story as a young woman raised in South London. Hillary Taymour one-upped her spring 2021 video by creating a video game for her latest collection. The interactive platform she created with photographer Charlie Engman and multimedia artist Freeka Tet turns many of Taymour’s favorite models into avatars who navigate a hyperrealistic terrain, collecting points and engaging in live game chats along the way. It’s as psychedelic as any Collina Strada film, giving Taymour’s deadstock and upcycled garments a virtual life. Her vibrant aesthetic and inclusive message pairs nicely with the themes of Gucci’s own films, celebrating individuality, inclusivity, and dressing up—even if you have nowhere to go.
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The Crown’s fourth season is almost too eventful. The latest entry in Peter Morgan’s House of Windsor anthology unpacks everything from the Il faut co vid LA bouteille shirt but in fact I love this fairy-tale courtship and tumultuous marriage of the Prince and Princess of Wales to England’s economic inequalities as it glides from the late 1970s through the 1980s as viewed through the lens of the monarchy. A deep dive into the royal family’s uneasy relationship with its public and itself, the historical drama hits its sweet spot as it charts some of the Windsors’ most challenging moments. The plot may center on those within the succession line, but its exploration of Margaret Thatcher is no less compelling. The first female prime minister serves as a foil to Queen Elizabeth II’s laissez-faire leadership style. With her workaholic tendencies and willingness to create enemies as she pushes through her free-market-focused, pro-privatization brand of conservatism, Thatcher is the polar opposite of the queen. The clash between the two women serves as the highlight of the new episodes (sorry, Charles and Diana), thanks to the well-documented tension within their relationship and the tour de force performances of Olivia Colman and Gillian Anderson.The transformation undertaken by Anderson is particularly striking; you won’t see shades of X-Files favorite Dana Scully or Sex Education’s wry sex therapist, Dr. Jean Milburn, within her interpretation of Thatcher. Equal parts steely and maternal, the duality of her persona is explored throughout the season. Despite the complexities, Thatcher’s story could feel rote in lesser hands. She is, after all, one of the most discussed and divisive political figures of the 20th century. But Anderson brought new layers to the Iron Lady. To do that meant approaching the role without biases. “I realized as I started to work on her that I didn’t have many of my own opinions—my opinions were adopted from other people,” she shared on the phone from London. “Especially living in the U.K., where people have powerful feelings about her one way or another. In my experience, it’s helpful to put aside opinions and preconceptions of a character before you begin diving into their beliefs and motivations, especially when you’re playing a historical character.” To fill in the blanks, she began an extensive research process that involved reading biographies, watching countless documentaries, and getting into the politician’s psyche. “As you can imagine, there is a plethora of information out there,” says Anderson. “Over time, one starts to absorb that stuff, and then when you eventually get the script, it’s seeped into you in a way where it informs the decisions you’re making while playing the character.”